Oh, I was meaning to give you a heads up about Parfumerie Generale/Pierre Guillaume -- he's a good perfumer but really likes his dessert-y scents, so if your skin tends to amplify sweetness, it may be a problem.

Suggestions are very welcome. I'm especially wanting something with lots of vetiver and spice, with maybe a boozy or tobacco-y note, a little vanilla or amber also fine provided it's not super sweet, and preferably without patchouli.

Guerlain Vetiver. Crisp and dry and beautiful, classic in a way that's the opposite of boring. Like a perfectly-weighted object.