kindkit: A late-Victorian futuristic zeppelin. (Default)
[personal profile] kindkit
My order of samples from Luckyscent came in a few days ago and I've been trying some things, without great luck so far. Unfortunately it seems like my new body chemistry absolutely eats perfumes; I'm tending to lose top notes very quickly, if I even get them at all, and few scents have much staying power.



My testing protocol was not exactly rigid: a couple of swipes on a clean wrist, with more as needed. I didn't refresh my memory of the listed fragrance notes until I'd been wearing the scent for at least half an hour, so that my reactions wouldn't be biased by what I should smell.

I've tried things in a randomish order, except for Ganymede (liked the name), Route du vetiver (I like vetiver), and Molecule 01 + Mandarin (it was the biggest bottle-ette).

Below are my fairly unedited notes.

Marc-Antoine Barrois, Ganymede (Eau de Parfum)

This was part of Luckyscent's Essential 13 Masculine sample pack.

Luckyscent fragrance notes: mandarin, violet, immortelle, and suede.

In vial: rum and clove?

On me: This is the great disappearing scent. Slight smell of alcohol. Skin musk. It smells like a scent that's been on for hours.

Applied a bucketload more to my left wrist, but it's not really developing. Can mostly only smell the violet (I could smell something lightly floral/sweet, but I couldn't name it as violet until I read the Luckyscent's notes list), such as it is. On my right wrist, where I didn't apply more, there's almost nothing. A couple more slathers, maybe a faint bit of orange. I've never worn this much scent to so little effect. Some salt does come out after 20 minutes to half an hour. After about 45 minutes the violet is fading, such as it ever was. Light leather, slightly sour skin smell. The suede must be the kind of skin musk note. Don't know what immortelle smells like: luckyscent says it has salty and mineralic tones. The suede and/or immortelle plus my skin chemistry isn't quite working either, there's something a bit sour. And the whole perfume smells kind of old, faded, past its best.

In conclusion: So not for me. Disappointing.


Escentric Molecules, Molecule 01 + Mandarin (Eau de Toilette)

Luckyscent notes: Iso-E Super, mandarin. Iso-E Super is a synthetic that is supposed to be woodsy, ambergris-y, velvety in texture, and to heighten florals.

In vial: Spray vial, can't tell.

On me: mandarin! Like exactly mandarin. This is starting to fade almost immediately, so something about my new skin chemistry apparently eats perfumes. After a couple of minutes there's something under the mandarin that I can't place, maybe a light wood or a skin musk? Oh no, it's going soapy. Not extremely soapy, just mildly, like Ivory soap (the old school unscented one).

After about 5 minutes it's still soap. A sort of buttery fatty soap, so velvety, yes, but nothing distinctive. I don't know what ambergris is supposed to smell like.

After about another 45 minutes the base note gets less soapy, more rounded, but it's still primarily this sort of clean but buttery smell. The soapiness continued to fade and after a couple of hours the wood came out more, which was very nice but quite faint.

In conclusion: I'll wear it because the drydown, after the soap phase, is all right. But I wish the mandarin lasted more than literally about 30 seconds.


Fort & Manle, All the Queen's Men (Eau de Parfum)

Luckyscent notes: Dried Fruit, Honey, Rum, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Fir Balsam, Woods

In vial: sweet spicy cocktail

On me: Kind of the same. Lots of cinnamon, lots of sweetness. Slight creaminess? Like buttery cinnamon toast, or rice pudding with cinnamon. Maybe amber in this? My skin is doing its best to kill this one as well so I've put on more. Very creamy, very blended, nothing standing out. Nothing really developing in this first couple of minutes. A couple of more minutes and this continued not to develop. It's nice enough but one-dimensional. At least I'm not losing it the way I lost all the bright notes, because this one doesn't have bright top notes.

After about 15 minutes the intense sweetness is fading and I'm getting some of the wood notes that are supposed to be in there. [My notes stop here but that's pretty much how it went: mostly sweet honey and a bit of cinnamon, with a hint of wood.]

In conclusion: Doesn't do it for me. I literally don't know why I bought this (it wasn't part of the sample pack). I don't love gourmand fragrances and in the past (pre-HRT) my skin amplified sweet notes, though apparently it doesn't do that as much anymore. Either I didn't read the notes carefully enough or I meant to get something else.


Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Route du Vetiver (Eau de Parfum)

Luckyscent notes: Blackcurrant, Leaf green, Aldehyde, Vetiver Bourbon, Precious Wood, Jasmine, Musk, Sandalwood

In vial: Vetiver and something bright and citrusy.

On me: Not getting the brightness that was in the vial. Dark vetiver, maybe some wood underneath but also that could just be the vetiver. After a few minutes: Already losing a lot of it. Some saltiness coming through. Applying more. Something in the combination of the two applications is very nice. Lots of saltiness through the vetiver. More of a skin saltiness than an oceanic saltiness, quite sexy. It's also smoother now, the vetiver not as spiky. Another 15 minutes: Lots of saltiness, very smooth, a sort of dark green quality. Another 15 minutes: A sweetness under the salt, very mild but like salted preserved plums or something. [My notes end here but it continued on this way. Not super vetiver-y after a couple of hours, but that salty drydown is quite nice, actually.]

In conclusion: My favorite of what I've tried so far. At the moment I'm hoping to find better and I don't like it enough to buy a bottle (especially since a 120 ml bottle costs $185), but I'll enjoy wearing the sample.


Comme des Garcons, Wonderwood (Eau de Parfum)

Another one from the sampler pack.

Luckyscent notes: Madagascan pepper, bergamot, Somalian incense, nutmeg, Cristalon, Cashmeran, guaiac wood, cedarwood, caraway seeds, Javanol, sandalwood, vetiver, oud

Tested 8/18/2022 9:20 am

In vial: Bright citrus.

On me: Some wood? This is another one my body seems to have decided to eat immediately. I am seriously getting almost nothing. Re-applied a huge amount, was able to get a hint of the scent in the vial for about 10 seconds and then it was gone again. There's a little bit of something like you would normally expect hours later, a faint kind of undefined woodiness/hint of musk and that's it. Applied two swipes to the back of my hand and was able to get the citrus a little while again before the disappearance.

After 10 minutes: It's all, even the more recent applications, just the undefined faintly woody dry-down scent. After just over 20 minutes: The cedar is coming out more distinctly, and the incense-y-ness. I wish I could smell the vetiver!

After 2 hours: Has dried down to nothing but incense. It's not a terrible headachey incense, it's all very soft, but meh.

In conclusion: Meh. It's tolerable.


Frank Los Angeles, No. 2 (Eau de Parfum)

From the sampler pack.

Luckyscent notes: bergamot, white lavender, coriander, crushed plum leaves, cognac, plum, fir balsam, coffee bean essence, red maplewood, teakwood, white musk [I wish I had gotten literally any of this.]

In vial: Bright and intense. Lime? Lavender?

On me: The lime [presumably actually the bergamot] starts fading almost immediately. Something faintly smoky, incense-y. And amber? Turning sweet and a bit powdery. Musk/leather? This is more complex than the other scents I've tried so far, even though it's also kind of typically cologne-y. After 5 minutes the powderiness is amping up. Contrasting the smell on my finger vs. my wrist I can smell how the initial citrus has faded on my wrist. I'm not really getting lavender on my wrist. There's quite a lot going on and yet ultimately it's all sort of scented baby powder.

After 10 minutes it has warmed and expanded so that there's much more sillage, and I had to use less of this one to start with--only two swipes. 15 minutes: still quite powdery, maybe a little booziness, some warmth from woods and/or musk, but overall, blah, cologne.

20 minutes: something's coming out that's a bit patchouli-ish. Starting to think about washing it off. What has that patchouli-like quality? I'm thinking either the white musk or the maplewood, which I vaguely remember having problems with. 35 minutes: this has turned nasty on me, washing it off.

In conclusion: Somehow both horrible and banal. And the only one that lasted at all well on my skin, of course. It took a lot of scrubbing to get it off.


Tauer, l'Air du desert marocain (Eau de Parfum)

From the sampler pack.

Luckyscent notes: Coriander, Petitgrain (Bitter orange), Lemon, Bergamot, Jasmin, Cistus, Bourbon, Geranium, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Vanille, Patchouli and Ambergris

In vial: Quite sweet, boozy, cacao maybe, clove?

On me: A quite dry top note emerges immediately, like sweet warm rocks. Some of it's the dryness of the cacao [Later, after reading the fragrance notes, I decided that what I was smelling as cacao must be the cedar and vanilla and maybe the patchouli. It still smelled mostly like cacao to me.] There's a lot of this cacao note. Maybe a dry citrus as well, like tangerine peel?

Just under 15 minutes: turning drier still, a distinct earthiness now through the cacao. 25 minutes: Getting sweeter again, with amber or something. Not as much cacao.

40 minutes: This dries down very nicely. It's lost that patchouli-ness. Still smells like cacao to me but that's okay! Barely sweet, just enough to cut the woodsiness a bit, with some richness from the ambergris. [Notes at the time end here, but this had quite a lovely drydown, with the cedar getting more cedar-y.]

In conclusion: My second fave of this batch. I'll wear the sample with pleasure but I don't think I'll be investing in a bottle. It held up better on my skin than many of the others I've tried.


Naomi Goodsir, Bois d'Ascese (Eau de Parfum)

From the sampler pack.

Luckyscent notes: tobacco, whiskey, cinnamon, amber, cistus labdanum, oakmoss, smoked cade wood, Somalian incense

In vial: Now this is interesting. Smoke but not ugly excessive smoke. And something bright.

On me: Smoke, a sort of spicy barbeque-y smoke, like hickory or something (not the foody element, just the smoke). Once again the bit that I applied on the outside rather than the inside of my arm stays brighter with more topnotes. Fading down fast though except the smoke. I like it but it just smells like I was at a bonfire.

15 minutes: Fading still, the smoke is softer now but it's still very much the dominant/only note. 35 minutes: put on a bunch more. Clearly I'm going to have to start testing these with what used to seem like excessive amounts. Get more of the ambery stuff.

After about an hour the smoke mostly fades out and the amber emerges more. After 1 hour and 45 minutes it's mostly faint, not very sweet amber. After another hour or so the smoke is totally gone but the amber has developed more, faint but lingering and not super sweet. I can still smell it (on the outside of my arm) almost 9 hours after applying.

In conclusion: A baffling scent that totally changes character. I don't mind either the smoky incarnation or the ambery one, but I'm just not getting the other notes that are supposed to be there, that hopefully provide some continuity. I like that the amber isn't sickly sweet, though I'm wondering if my changed skin chemistry just means that I'm not going to be amplifying sweet scents like I used to. Anyway, if this scent had a throughline I'd be more interested, but on me it's just Jekyll & Hyde (or Hyde and then Jekyll) and neither phase is complex enough in itself to really grab me.

Date: 2022-08-16 03:48 am (UTC)
sovay: (Haruspex: Autumn War)
From: [personal profile] sovay
Blackcurrant, Leaf green, Aldehyde, Vetiver Bourbon, Precious Wood, Jasmine, Musk, Sandalwood

Niiiiice.

I'm glad this one seems to work for you.

Date: 2022-08-19 06:03 am (UTC)
chestnut_pod: A close-up photograph of my auburn hair in a French braid (Default)
From: [personal profile] chestnut_pod
That really is half the fun, in my opinion!

(Thanks for linking this over in the smellsnice comm; I enjoyed reading your notes.)

Date: 2022-08-16 07:23 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
Thank you for the write-ups; I always love reading other people's scent nerdings. I may have to check out Route de Vetiver (I love salt, I love vetiver, I love salted preserved plums, I love dark green smells ...).

If your skin no longer amplifies sweet notes as much, that's both fascinating and excellent (since you don't like over-sweet stuff).

Date: 2022-08-17 06:41 am (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
But I wish the mandarin lasted more than literally about 30 seconds.

Commended to your attention, if you want long-lasting mandarin:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Serge-Lutens/Mandarine-Mandarin-2766.html

Mandarin, dried orange peel, smoky black tea, nutmeg and something salty (lots of people get celery or fennel). So technically "gourmand" in that it's about edible things, but in an apothecary shop way. Dark shop full of dried things hanging from the ceiling. Amber-y in the drydown but that might not be a problem if your skin's less prone to over-amping that.

I did a test for longevity and on me I can still smell faint citrus in it after wearing it overnight.

Date: 2022-08-19 12:49 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
Yeah, "gourmand" is frequently shorthand for "sugar overload".

Date: 2022-08-17 01:36 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
If Tauer stuff tends to last on you, and AdDM is nice but not It, and you like smoke, I wonder if you might be interested by Lonestar Memories (birch tar, leather, and the desert is in America not Morocco):

https://www.eaumg.net/tauer-lonestar-memories-edt-perfume-review/
https://basenotes.com/threads/lair-du-desert-marocain-vs-lonestar-memories.191381/
https://kafkaesqueblog.com/2013/05/01/perfume-review-lonestar-memories-by-tauer-perfumes-mad-max-meets-sticky-orange/

Warning: I do really like phenols in perfume; YMMV.

Date: 2022-08-19 12:38 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
Aha, [personal profile] kaberett did a write-up of it way back when (along with Knize Ten, a truly old school leather which might also be of interest):

https://kaberett.dreamwidth.org/230126.html

[personal profile] vass had a different take on Knize Ten:

https://vass.dreamwidth.org/1657758.html

Date: 2022-08-19 05:28 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
Wow, Knize Ten sounds . . . challenging.

Might be or might not be, depending on your tastes and how it plays on your skin (it's a Serious Leather, but also very well-tailored, in its 1920s Vienna way), but it's also a really cool one to sample out just of historical interest.

And if your skin tends to eat stuff, that might mean you can wear some heavy-duty scents with abandon!

Date: 2022-08-19 11:05 am (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
Don't know what immortelle smells like

Curry, sometimes.

Thread discussing When Immortelle Goes Wrong (and right):

https://some-stars.dreamwidth.org/2304714.html?thread=980170&style=mine#cmt980170

Date: 2022-08-19 12:23 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: Lee Miller photo showing two women wearing metal fire masks in England during WWII. (Default)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
Oh, if you like Iso-E Super (many people do, me included; some people hate it) and vetiver/woods, Terre d'Hermes is a modern classic masculine -- grapefruit/pepper/cedar/vetiver, heavy on the Iso-E, with a sort of "flinty", mineral aspect to it.

I find it a bit too smooth for my personal tastes (I tend to like my scents a bit broken and weirder), but it's very impressive and much-loved.

Date: 2022-08-19 01:35 pm (UTC)
lunabee34: (Default)
From: [personal profile] lunabee34
Out of curiosity, did you take a hot shower or bath within a few hours of applying? That always makes perfume disappear on me. Putting a little unscented lotion on a little before can also help with staying power.

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kindkit: A late-Victorian futuristic zeppelin. (Default)
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